Hôtel de l’Amphithéâtre

Down a narrow backstreet leading away from Les Arènes, this tall townhouse has rooms in greys, whites and taupes, some with balconies overlooking place du Marché (fear not, there's double glazing), plus great buffet breakfasts (€10) including organic honey and homemade jam. It’s run by an expat Cornishman and his French wife. No lift.