Combining historic walls, French soul food and a lost-in-time village, it's hard to imagine a more atmospheric place to stay than Le Clos Saint François. Its four sizeable rooms, each decorated with a flair for antiques, are housed in a restored late-17th-century convent; ask to see the chapel. It's 14km west of La Chaise-Dieu.
Breakfast is a fine spread of homemade jams and organic produce, and there's an ample evening meal (€22) cooked up by owner Karine, who couldn't be a more effusive host.