If there's one stall at the city's iconic food market that sums up the contagious joie de vivre of Les Capus (as locals call the market), it is this bistrot à huitres (oyster bar). Jean-Mi greets regulars and first-timers with the same huge smile, and his freshly shucked oysters, fish soup and copious seafood platters are of the finest quality money can buy.
Arrive early at weekends to snag an alfresco table overlooking the open-air fruit and veg stalls on place des Capucins. Should a dozen oysters and a glass of white tickle your fancy for petit dej, Jean-Mi serves breakfast too.