This happening hideaway can be whatever you want it to be: backpacker party central or high-end escape. Lodgings are spread across a small hill and two pretty beaches: the 32-bed dorm and treehouse bures are tucked away up a forested path, while self-contained jungle bures and posh new beachfront villas skirt the sand, far enough from the lively bar to be peaceful.
Many people come here for its proximity to the manta ray channel and excellent off-shore snorkelling; there are tons of other organised activities, including guided island treks, cooking classes, sunset tube cruises and diving.
The hilltop restaurant serves fresh, inventive and filling food ($87 compulsory meal plan); huge slices of wood-fired pizza ($5) are available during the twilight cocktail hour.