Driving down the long dirt track to Crusoe's Retreat off the Queens Road, you'd be forgiven for thinking you were heading to the middle of nowhere, but there's a real gem at the end of the road. Many of the 28 spacious and fan-cooled bures are located on a hillside and the stairs are not ideal for older guests, but it's a truly tranquil retreat for others.
The pool is small but the restaurant (mains $15 to $25) serves classy fare, and you can also walk along the beach to the Wellesley for a change of scene. The inhouse Dive Crusoes dive shop offers everything for both scuba fiends and first-timers alike.