Caqalai Island Resort is a gem of a backpackers and is run by Moturiki’s Methodist Church, but don’t let that scare you – you’ll find more kava here than kumbaya (but bring your own alcohol if you prefer that to the muddy stuff). Accommodation is in big, basic bures scattered between the palm trees and hibiscus. Cold-water showers are in a shared block.
Locals come over from Moturiki or Leleuvia in the evenings and there’s often some singing and dancing and a kava session. The resort offers village trips to Moturiki ($10), boat trips to tiny Honeymoon Island ($15) and day trips to Leleuvia ($10). Boat transfers from the mainland are from Waidalice Landing, a 90-minute bus ride from Suva.