Cross shapped windows in Bet Merkorios

Getty Images/Lonely Planet Images

Bet Merkorios

Lalibela


Reached via a series of trenches and tunnels (one is long, narrow and pitch-black) that starts from Bet Gabriel-Rufael, this church may have started as something altogether different. The discovery of ankle shackles among other objects has led scholars to believe it may have served as the town’s prison, or house of justice.

Due to a large section collapsing, the interior is a fraction of its former size and the brick walls are an unfortunate necessity. Don’t miss the beautiful fresco (maybe 15th century), sometimes said to represent the Three Wise Men, though since they’re holding crosses, this can’t be correct. With their little flipper hands and eyes that look askance, they’re delightful. The 12 apostles are represented below in a less attractive and probably later fresco. The Passion of the Christ painting on cotton fabric next to the frescoes probably dates from the 16th century. Formerly, such paintings were plastered to the church walls with a mixture of straw, ox blood and mud.

The 35m pitch-black tunnel to the church as you come from Bet Gabriel-Rufael is said to represent hell and, according to local tradition, should be walked without any light – mind your head!


Lonely Planet's must-see attractions

Nearby Lalibela attractions

1. Bet Amanuel

0.02 MILES

Free-standing and monolithic, Bet Amanuel is Lalibela’s most finely carved church. Some have suggested it was the royal family’s private chapel. It…

2. Bet Abba Libanos

0.02 MILES

Hewn into a rock face, Bet Abba Libanos is unique among Lalibela’s churches because only the roof and floor remain attached to the strata. Many of its…

3. Bet Gabriel-Rufael

0.05 MILES

Its entrance flanked by a sloping sliver of rock known as the ‘Way to Heaven’, this imposing twin-church marks the main entrance to the southeastern group…

4. Bet Danaghel

0.18 MILES

To the south of the Bet Maryam courtyard is the pleasingly primitive and grotto-like chapel of Bet Danaghel (House of the Virgins), said to have been…

5. Bet Medhane Alem

0.18 MILES

Resembling a massive Greek temple more than a traditional Ethiopian church, Bet Medhane Alem is impressive for its size and majesty. Said to be the…

6. Bet Maryam

0.19 MILES

Connected to Bet Medhane Alem by a tunnel is a large courtyard containing three churches. The first, Bet Maryam, is small, yet designed and decorated to…

7. Bet Golgotha & Bet Mikael

0.21 MILES

A trench at the southern end of the Bet Maryam courtyard connects it to the twin churches of Bet Golgotha and Bet Mikael (also known as Bet Debre Sina)…

8. Bet Meskel

0.21 MILES

Carved into the courtyard’s northern wall at Bet Maryam is the tiny semi-chapel of Bet Meskel. Four pillars divide the gallery into two aisles spanned by…