At Filwoha Hot Springs, in the far north of the park, around 30km from the highway, you can swim in the turquoise-blue pools, but they’re not as refreshing as they look: temperatures touch 45°C and crocodiles lurk in the cooler areas. The beauty around the springs is boosted by the doum palms, used by the local people to make mats. After 5pm the area comes alive with birds, and lions can sometimes be heard at night.
Beware of treacherous quicksand – always go with a guide or an armed scout.