As you come over the causeway from Taulud Island, a broad sweep of white, arcaded palazzi (palaces) stretches out before you. On the corner you'll see the Hotel Savoiya with its long gallery. Start your exploration with a cup of coffee here and then jump into the maze of small unpaved streets. Fear not, you're never lost for long.
It's also possible to stay here, as the hotel still rents out rooms (from nfa250 per person), but expect extremely basic conditions.