This 18th-century coaching inn has had an ambitious makeover to return it to its former glory. The food is recommended, the beers are brewed in-house (ask behind the bar and you might get a mini guided tour of the microbrewery), and there's also a 1920s-themed cocktail den that you enter around the back of the pub. Fresh, modern B&B rooms upstairs cost from £95.
One of the rooms harbours a hidden jewel: a painting by British interwar-years artist Rex Whistler, who stayed here during WWII.