Poole's top table consistently delights as it combines local ingredients with lashings of French flair. Predictably, fish features strongly – the spicy sautéed squid with samphire is superb; chargrilled sea bass is flambéed with Pernod – but rosemary-scented Dorset lamb also makes carnivores smile. Book.
The set lunch (two/three courses £17/20.50) is a snip.