A two-century-old, ivy-clad drovers' inn 11 miles east of Barnard Castle is now the staging post for gastronomic expeditions by self-taught chef James Close, who received his first Michelin star in 2012 and second in 2017. Tasting menus (no à la carte) typically feature 12 to 15 intricate courses, such as in-the-shell razor clams with brown shrimp. Reserve weeks ahead.
In the former stables are three luxurious guest rooms (doubles including breakfast from £180).