At the edge of Shali, Nanshaal is a tranquil haven, with a few rooms in a restored mud-brick house. Run by the laid-back Faris Hassanein, the rooms here are simple but authentically Siwan, using mostly natural materials. There is a great roof terrace where you can watch time pass.
Faris knows everyone and is very helpful in suggesting all the delights that the oases and surrounding desert have on offer.