You will see the ruins of Akhetaten – temples and private or administrative buildings – scattered across the plain of Tell Al Amarna, but the main sights to head for are the tombs. There are 26 in total, divided into two groups, some 8km apart. Tombs one to six are in the north; seven to 25 are in the south. No 26 is the royal tomb. Not all are open and only five (3 to 6 and the royal tomb) currently have light.
The lit tombs contain some of the best reliefs with coloured, though defaced, wall paintings of life during the Aten revolution. Even if you have transport, the guards may be reluctant to open the unlighted tombs and will certainly want a tip (at least LE20 per person). Many visitors find the southern tombs disappointing after the hassle of getting there. Be sure to bring water and refreshments as there are currently none available at the site. Buy tickets at the ticket office.