Just 4km from the north entrance to the park, El Porvenir mixes the rustic comfort of an authentic hacienda experience with a strong ecological slant. Up in the roof space, small singles and doubles are separated by bamboo panels and share bathrooms; there are also cozy private rooms and suites. The restaurant is open to nonguests (mains $8 to $14.50).
The setting, high in the páramo (grassland) with nothing but views of Cotopaxi for company, is spectacular. There are tons of outdoor activities, such as horseback-riding, a high ropes course and mountain biking, as well as a new spa area with a Jacuzzi, massage rooms and a temazcal sweat lodge. Call ahead for transport.