Most visitors to Papallacta stay at this supremely comfortable yet totally unpretentious resort – a great way to experience the thermal baths in style. All accommodations are done beautifully in wood paneling: cabins can be thatched, adobe numbers or sumptuous two-floor affairs with ceramic fireplaces, surrounding hot pools for guest use only. There’s a good restaurant and a sumptuous spa.
Rooms and cabins have private bathrooms, thermal heating and bathtubs. The better rooms have whirlpool Jacuzzis, too. Weekends must be reserved well in advance. The Sucus restaurant (mains $11 to $20) serves a wide range of international dishes, including filet mignon, and Ecuadorian fare such as llapingachos (cheesy potato cakes); there are another two restaurants in the Spa and the Balneario.