You might leave this oasis of comfort and sophistication (on an otherwise gritty stretch) feeling envious of the regulars who are welcomed like family. It's the sort of place where the Italian owner bustles around, doling out pats and quips. Nearly three-dozen types of really top-notch pizza and pasta, plus fish and meat dishes round out the menu.
Great-looking pastries, cakes, gelato and wine are on display in the bright and welcoming cafe side. The larger dining room, often closed for private events on weekends, is a dreamy fantasyscape of papier-mâché trees and structures such as canopied beds.