'Aqui jamás estuvo Hemingway' (Hemingway was never here) reads the sign outside Chanchullero, with more than a hint of irony. It's a key point. Since the American author never frequented this roguish joint in Plaza del Cristo, the price of cocktails has remained refreshingly low (CUC$2.50), meaning you can get as smashed as he once did.
El Chanchullero started as a small bar half a decade ago and, fueled by a recent expansion, it remains popular. Join the line outside. It's well worth the wait.