You know Cuba is changing when you find an actual warehouse-style brewpub filled with locals quaffing pints brewed on-site. The four beers at this noisy, fun spot range from extra-clara (light lager) to negra (black), which is as diverse an array as you'll see in Cuba. There's decent pub food, including popular caldo del rey (a broth with a pork-rib base).
Best after a walk on the Malecón.