When a wine bar is run by a top sommelier, you know you're in good hands. Jelene Šimić Valentić's casual-chic place is the best spot in town to get acquainted with Croatia's plethora of wines. Service is charming and genuinely helpful and the wine list is (unsurprisingly) a roll-call of the country's best cellars plus some international names.
If you're passing by in the morning and it's a wee bit early to start on a bottle, you can also stop for good coffee and cake.