Trattoria Bajamont

This tiny joint within the walls of Diocletian's Palace is like a granny’s living room, with old-school sewing-machine tables. There’s no sign above the door, and the daily menu is written out in marker pen; traditional seafood dishes, such as brujet (seafood stew with wine, onions and herbs, served with polenta), feature. There's an annexe across the alley.