On the far side of the village, within walking distance of El Faro lighthouse, is the best ranchería in town. The adjoining rooms, fashioned from the traditional Wayuu cactus, have a few splashes of color, with hung blankets and the like. Bonuses are a large, clean restaurant and an owner who's happy to greet his guests.
Budget travelers can choose from enramadas (opened-sided shelters) where you can sling hammocks or chinochorros (deluxe hammocks), and 'shower' with a bucket of water and a ladle that staff will politely bring to you.
Utta is right on the beach and hosts the odd spontaneous Wayuu cultural event.