Sōngyuèlóu

Dating to 1910, this place has cheap eats, such as wontons (馄饨汤; húntún tāng; ¥10) and veggie options, including tofu masquerading as meat (black-pepper beef noodle soup; ¥35). Upstairs has an English menu, spotless tablecloths and a price hike. Downstairs is a Mandarin-only, busy, canteen-style affair where you order first, get a receipt and share tables.