In the old quarter of town, this Lǔ (Shandong) cuisine institution was founded in 1891 and is known for its delicious dumplings. Choose either shuǐ jiǎo (水饺, boiled dumplings) or zhēng jiǎo (蒸饺, steamed dumplings). Fillings include ròu sān xiān (肉三鲜, pork, dried shrimp and mushroom; ¥30), xiā rén (虾仁, fresh shrimp with chives; ¥48) and báicài dà bāo (白菜大包, pork with cabbage; ¥20).
It's other speciality is xiāngsū jī (香酥鸡, ¥78), a big plate of roasted, fragrant chicken. Note that there are three sections to this restaurant. The central one, up on the 1st floor, on the corner of the building, is the most atmospheric and has a menu with photos (but no English). The two to the side are no-frills alternatives with slightly cheaper dumplings menus, and have slightly different opening hours (7am to 9pm).