With great clouds of steam rising from the kitchen, this local icon has been flogging noodles since 1943, but its handmade shēngjiān bāo (生煎包, pan-fried dumplings), stuffed with juicy pork, are outstanding and flavour-packed. During lunch hours expect to queue for 30 minutes just to order! Protocol: place your order, line up at the windows to pick up your food (soup left, dumplings right), snag a table and enjoy.
Head to the side for chilli oil and soy sauce. Watch out for the meat juice, it can fly. There's more room and a breeze through the window upstairs. No English menu.