Don't miss the experience of eating this culinary landmark, established in 1747 and set around a small temple courtyard. Downstairs has a Hunan menu and dim sum trolley; upstairs is the self-service area (perhaps easier to navigate), presenting an array of small dishes, steamed buns, skewers, soups and much more. Portions are inexpensive but small, so come prepared to spend.
Dishes to look out for include: Máojiā hóngshāoròu (毛家红烧肉; Mao-style braised pork), làjiāo chǎoròu (辣椒炒肉; pork fried with chillies) and qīngtāng miàn (清汤面; non-spicy vegetable soup noodles) and choù dòufu (臭豆腐; stinky tofu). Outside is a takeaway window.
The Wuyi Dadao branch, near the train station, is less atmospheric, but slightly cheaper and has a photo menu.