Kowloon's most famous tea cafe, this highly instagrammable cha chaan tang (teahouse; c 1950) with mosaic tiles and metal latticework stands astride a street corner that comes to life at sundown. Go upstairs and take a seat next to a wall of iron-framed windows overlooking Tin Hau Temple.
The food is as retro as the surrounds; luncheon-meat sandwiches, macaroni soup, baked rice and other grub that sounds like it came out of a British Army cookbook circa 1939.