A few kilometres east of Dengfeng, the ancient and hoary Zhongyue Temple is a colossal active Taoist monastery complex that originally dates back to the 2nd century BC. Embedded in a mountainous background, with monks garbed in traditional dress and sporting topknots, the temple is less visited and exudes a more palpable air of reverence than its Buddhist sibling, the Shaolin Temple.
The complex is sometimes called the 'Small Forbidden City' after a restoration in the Qing dynasty, which was modelled on the Forbidden City in Beijing.
Besides attending the main hall dedicated to the Mountain God, walk through the Gate of Three Changes and expunge pengju, pengzhi and pengjiao – three pestilential insects that respectively inhabit the brain, stomach and feet. Drop by the four Iron Men of Song, rubbed by visitors to cure ailments, and stop by the Sixty Gods Hall, where visitors pay respects to the god corresponding to their birth year.
From Dengfeng, take the green bus 2 from Songshan Lu in town.