Outside, it's a seething mass of people crowded around tables. Inside, it's even more packed as you enter a former bomb shelter – white-tiled walls and a rock roof. This Chongqing institution is a unique, utilitarian dining experience, with all strata of society in search of the signature fish dish (鲫鱼, jíyú, carp) and the simply sublime spare ribs (排骨, páigǔ).
As always, it's best to eat in a group and be prepared to wait for a table. But it never closes, so you can roll up anytime. No English menu, so point at the picture menu or at what other diners are eating.
