Yàn Lán Lóu

A temple to the pleasures of eating sheep, this restaurant celebrates the food of Gansu province, 1500km west. That means skewers of mutton dusted in cumin and chilli, and roasted over hot coals, delectably tender boiled lamb ribs, and other more offal-type cuts. The sheep-averse can try hand-pulled noodles in a beef broth (兰州牛肉拉面, Lánzhōu niúròu lāmiàn), as good as any in Beijing.