Zhang Mama

Top choice in Beijing


An absurdly affordable spice-fest, humble Zhang Mama is run by a multi-generational family of Sichuan exiles (including mama), all with mad wok skills. The signature is xiāngguō (香锅; ¥48 to ¥58), a humongous bowl of either chicken (香锅鸡; xiāngguō jī), shrimp (香锅虾; xiāngguō xiā) or pork ribs (香锅排骨; xiāngguō páigǔ) amid a witches' brew of veggies, whole spices and chillies. One bowl will do two to three diners.

Similarly abundant is the huíguōròu (回锅肉; ¥28), a smoky, ‘twice-cooked’ Sichuan pork rump sliced thin and served with veggies, fried dough pieces and, yep, more chillies. Sichuan-style dandan noodles (担担面; dàndàn miàn; ¥8) are authentically dry, while classics including mapo tofu (麻婆豆腐; mápó dòufu; ¥16) are equally assured.

In warm weather, everybody eats bō bō jī (钵钵鸡; ¥8), a pot of spicy cold broth into which you dip skewers of cooked veggies (¥1 each). Help yourself to skewers from the fridges; staff will count the discarded sticks when it's time to pay.

Zhang Mama is hugely popular, so expect to queue; a useful hack is to arrive between 9pm and 9.30pm. There are a few other locations around town, including one a short walk north of Gulou subway station. No English menu.


Lonely Planet's must-see attractions

Nearby Beijing attractions

1. Mao Dun's Former Residence

0.2 MILES

This largely renovated residence was the home of Mao Dun, the pen name of Shen Yanbing (1896–1981), a well-known author. He lived at the back courtyard…

2. Nanluogu Xiang

0.41 MILES

Beijing's most touristy hutong, Nanluogu Xiang is a north–south strip of snack stalls, small food courts, souvenir shops and more people than you can…

3. Imperial City Relics Park

0.45 MILES

There's a reason this park is 2.4km long yet only 30m wide; it traces part of the old Imperial City walls dismantled in the 1950s. The walls enclosed the…

4. Qi Baishi's Former Residence

0.47 MILES

Known for the whimsical, often playful style of his watercolours, Qi Baishi (1864–1957) was an influential Chinese painter who lived in Beijing from 1917…

5. Duan Qirui Former Government Building

0.49 MILES

This imposing slab of Republic-era architecture, complete with brick clock tower, is the former headquarters and residence of Duan Qirui, a warlord who…

6. Confucius Temple & Imperial College

0.58 MILES

An incense stick’s toss away from the Lama Temple, China’s second-largest Confucian temple is a haven of scholarly calm and contemplation. Come to wander…

7. Drum Tower

0.71 MILES

Venerable bastions of time-keeping, the Drum Tower and its counterpart the Bell Tower were for centuries the tallest buildings in Beijing, lording it over…

8. Bell Tower

0.75 MILES

The restrained, grey-stone edifice of the Bell Tower (Zhonglou) is arguably even more charming than its resplendent other half, the Drum Tower (Gulou),…