This department store of traditional arts specialises in wénfáng sì bǎo (文房四宝), the 'four treasures of study', namely brushes, ink, paper and inkstones. You'll also find scroll paintings, calligraphy, woodblock prints, ceramics, a 2nd-floor art gallery and snoozy staff – a consequence of it being state-run since 1950.
The history of Rongbaizhai dates back to 1672 during the early Qing dynasty. It moved here in 1896. During the Cultural Revolution, it was declared a 'black shop' (an enemy of the people).