Phnom Bayong

South Coast


Affording breathtaking views of Vietnam’s pancake-flat Mekong Delta, the cliff-ringed summit of Phnom Bayong (313m) is graced by a 7th-century Chenla temple built to celebrate a victory over Funan. The linga (phallic symbol) originally in the inner chamber is now in Paris’ Musée Guimet, but a number of flora- and fauna-themed bas-relief panels can still be seen, for example on the lintels of the three false doorways, and carved into the brickwork.

Phnom Bayong is about 3km west of the northern edge of Kirivong (Phumi Tonleab); the turn-off on NH2 is marked by a painted panel depicting the temple, 39km south of Takeo. From the turn-off, drive 2km along a sealed road, then turn left on a dirt road and proceed uphill for another kilometre or so to the parking area.

From the parking area, a twisting concrete single track leads straight up to the base of the temple. You can either walk this bit (about 30 minutes) or navigate it by motorbike (10 minutes) – a real thrill whether you are self-driving or on the back of a moto (about US$5 round trip from Kirivong). From the base of the temple, it's a 10-minute grunt straight up a crumbling, ancient staircase to the temple (bring plenty of water).

To get to Kirivong from Takeo, take a share taxi (US$3.50), a chartered taxi (US$20) or a moto (one-way/round trip US$10/15).


Lonely Planet's must-see attractions

Nearby South Coast attractions

1. Kirivong Waterfall

1.44 MILES

Gentle Kirivong Waterfall is a popular bathing and picnic spot for locals just west of Kirivong. No booming cascade, but plenty of local colour and it can…

2. Ba Chuc Tomb

10.77 MILES

Ba Chuc’s memorial, 40km south of Chau Doc, stands as a ghastly reminder of the horrors perpetrated by the Khmer Rouge. Between 18 April and 30 April 1978…

3. Cavern Pagoda

15.84 MILES

Also known as Phuoc Dien Tu, this temple is halfway up the western (far) side of Sam Mountain, with amazing views of the surrounding countryside. The…

4. Tra Su Bird Sanctuary

16.12 MILES

This immense 800,000-hectare forest is home to an astounding number of wading birds. Much of the wetland is off-limits to visitors so that the birds'…

5. Tomb of Thoai Ngoc Hau

16.28 MILES

A high-ranking official, Thoai Ngoc Hau (1761–1829) served the Nguyen Lords and, later, the Nguyen dynasty. In early 1829 Thoai Ngoc Hau ordered that a…

6. Temple of Lady Xu

16.34 MILES

Founded in the 1820s to house a statue of Lady Xu that’s become the subject of a popular cult, this large temple faces Sam Mountain, on the same road as…

7. Tay An Pagoda

16.38 MILES

Founded in 1847 on the site of an earlier shrine, Tay An’s current structure dates from 1958. Aspects of its eclectic architecture, particularly its domed…

8. Floating Houses

19.4 MILES

These rustic houses, the floats of which consist of empty metal drums, are both a place to live and a livelihood for their residents. Under each house,…