Once an 18th-century residence, the Toma is a small, family-run guesthouse (with a big and sometimes loud adjoining restaurant) up a side street north of the square. The decor ranges from animal horns to ornate woodcarvings, and rooms, which are decked out with tapestries, are just as cheerful.
Try for room 4, which has an ornate painted cupola and 18th-century hand-carved wooden ceiling.