Maria Fulô Bistrô Natural & Tapiocaria

This cheerfully painted little restaurant just outside the historic center is a welcome refuge for both wallet and taste buds. At lunchtime, reasonably priced, healthy pratos feitos (set meals; R$26) rule the day; come evening, the menu shifts over to tapiocas, the spongy manioc-flour pancakes stuffed with various fillings that have long been a Brazilian budget staple.