The walls of this lively, bilevel boteco (neighborhood bar) straddling Centro and Cidade Baixa are covered in some 200-odd musings of comedians and locals, and packs in a wild bunch of draft beer–swilling locals, here to preempt the chope (draft beer) with regional delicacies like honey-smoked pork rib sandwiches or crunchy shrimp cubes with coalho cheese.
Saturdays bring feijoada (bean-and-meat stew; male/female R$42.90/39.90) and samba – reserve ahead!