Solar do Unhão

This well-preserved, 18th-century complex served as a transfer point for sugar shipments: legend says it's haunted by the ghosts of murdered slaves. Today, the building houses the Museu de Arte Moderna, with a changing display of avant-garde exhibits, a hillside sculpture garden, and popular Saturday-evening jazz and bossa nova concerts (JAM no MAM) with stunning views over the bay. Take a taxi – the area is known for tourist muggings.