In the striking Edifício Copan, Dona Onça is one of downtown's best bars, not only for the packed crowds and excellent drinks, but for lauded chef Janaina Rueda's kitchen that churns out extraordinary Brazilian-heartland fare. Commence with the caju amigo – a cachaça-based Paulistano cocktail with cashew fruit (R$33).
For food (mains R$49 to R$69), expect the likes of pressure-cooked oxtail with polenta, a fabulous pork calf, and an artistic feijoada on Saturday.