About 105km by river from Leticia, eco-fierce Palmarí's rambling lodge and research center sits on the south (Brazilian) bank of the river, overlooking a wide bend where pink and gray dolphins often gather. It's the only lodge with access to all three Amazonian ecosystems: terra firme (dry), várzea (semiflooded) and igapó (flooded). The lodge itself is rustic and has helpful guides employed from the surrounding community (no English, but much authenticity and expertise).
The lodge also has a wide choice of walking trips and night hikes, boat excursions and kayaking trips, and there is excellent food prepared by the Brazilian kitchen staff. You'll find Palmarí has the best hiking options around the region, is the only place to encounter terra firme forest, and is the best spot to see animals. When a tapir strolled into the dining room during dinner on our first night, we knew we'd come to the right place!
Independent traveler rates include room and board and start at €75 per person per night, including transfers and hammock. They go much higher for a full package and more comfortable private accommodations.
The reserve is managed from Bogotá by owner Axel Antoine-Feill, who can speak several languages, including English. To get here, arrange transportation from Leticia with the lodge.