For an authentic slice of Rio, head to one of the massive open-air samba parties that happen several times a week in Andaraí. The setup is simple: a handful of musicians around a table play samba, while huge dance-loving crowds gather around. Monday nights (samba do trabalhador or 'samba for the worker'), which are lead by maestro Moacyr Luz, are excellent.
If you like samba, don’t mind big crowds and are up for a bit of adventure, then this place is for you – it’s well off the tourist circuit.