Our favorite of the atmospheric seafood restaurants that line the western coast of Lagoa de Conceicão in the village of Costa da Lagoa. A wealth of just-caught seafood is on offer at this sustainably leaning waterfront hot spot, but the carapava is the way to go, available only in this village.
To reach Pier 17, catch a frequent boat from Lagoa de Conceicão and stay on board past the far more crowded first stop (you will also catch the boat back more easily from here as it passes by first on its way back to town).