The homey candlelit interior here matches the fuss-free atmosphere and service. The cuisine, however, is rather more sophisticated, with plenty of innovation and subtle flavour combinations at a pretty generous price. Linger over mixed seafood paella, lobster with zucchini 'caviar', duckling with foie gras and delicate slices of smoked beef with anchovy cream.
Be prepared to take some time over the meal and go with the flow.