Excellent-quality rural French food served in a candlelit 16th-century building whose traditional gingham-and-beams interior is enlivened by some bold contemporary portraiture. Vegetarians should look elsewhere. Carnivores choose carefully if you're squeamish about head, bone marrow or andouillette (pork intestine sausage).
'Everything contains allergens' declares the menu with a caustic offhand humour that's shared by the savvy staff. Reservations are recommended.