Behind an upmarket Italian grocery, this fabulous 1869 tannery-owner's mansion has six vast, fully equipped rooms. The fine breakfast is blessed by a wooden Buddha in a grand drawing room with a baronial-style ceiling and an alluring terrace facing trees and hills. It's remarkable value.
If arriving outside shop hours (it closes by 6pm Tuesday to Friday, 5.30pm Saturday and all day Sunday and Monday) pre-organise your arrival time as the charming English-speaking owners don't live on site.