Qaynana

Baku


Big glass windows illuminate a plethora of pickle jars and hanging rugs, festive musical rhythms create further atmosphere and at the back, big təndir (clay ovens) ensure a supply of fresh baked bread to accompany a range of Azerbaijani specialities.

Try the fisincan plov (rice topped with a nut-and-pomegranate chicken, AZN10) but here – as anywhere – be cautious of ordering xaş (garlic-rich trotter soup) with which even locals usually require a few shots of vodka.