Within red Pompidou-style scaffolding – the work of artist Callum Morton – lies this buzzing, sophisticated spot, dominated by a grand marble bar and plaster-chipped walls behind lit glass. Waiters seemingly plucked from Venice's Caffè Florian mix perfect spritzes while dishing out bites, from lightly fried local seafood to elegant pastas (available till close). Book ahead; it's extremely popular.
You can now also sit at the bar at the second Di Stasio on Spring St in the city centre, surrounded by an elegant, arty crowd with video projections on the walls. Regardless of where you end up, order the wonderful merenda, a grown-up 'after-school sandwich' of crumbed veal on white bread wrapped in tinfoil.