The ironbark charcoal grill at George Calombaris’ northern outpost works overtime as long-time staff serve and chat with ease. The slow-roasted lamb shoulder is the signature here, but taramasalata (white cod roe dip) and grilled saganaki with sticky figs make an unbelievably good start. Wash it all down with ouzo from the long list.
Great-value sharing menus are available from $55 per head.