Dunkeld's main attraction is the Wickens at the Royal Mail, awarded two coveted Good Food Guide chef's hats and long regarded as one of Victoria's finest restaurants. The kitchen is overseen by Robin Wickens, who's behind its daily-changing menu of local, seasonal produce. Also here is the Parker St Project bistro, a more affordable option that doesn't skimp on quality.
Both have an open fire and views out to the Grampians' Mt Sturgeon. Most of the menu is sourced from the Mail's farm and garden kitchen to create highly seasonal dishes with plenty of delightful surprises. Service is impeccable, as is the wine list, with the largest collection of Bordeaux and Burgundy wines in the southern hemisphere – all available by the glass. It's advisable to book weeks ahead, but otherwise it's worth checking availability a few days prior. The Parker St Project is open daily for delicious bistro-style mains, and reservations aren't generally required.
There's accommodation here, too.