This dingy, small, graffiti-strewn bar deliberately plays up its downbeat location at a corner of a multistorey carpark. The drinks, however, are very high-class, with imaginative, expertly prepared cocktails, gin-and-tonics served in cut-glass tumblers and New York deli–style sandwiches.

It can be tough to spot. Take Horwood Pl north from Macquarie St, pass the carpark and turn right at the end of it – the bar is right there.