Neon sign advertising po'boy sandwiches in New Orleans, Louisiana. tacojim/Getty Images
New Orleans has one of the most recognizable food scenes in the US, in no small part because this town organically did "organic," as it were. It’s now accepted wisdom that top food and flavors come from the intermingling of cultures, access to great ingredients and an aversion to cutting corners. New Orleans kitchens have, by and large, subscribed to this ethos for three centuries. The result is a distinct, Creole-influenced cuisine that has been internationally renowned for more than a minute.
At the same time, New Orleans' food is enlivened by an increasingly international palette; yes, of course you can get great gumbo, but the rest of the world now gets to weigh in on the menu, too.
Read on and take a gastronomic trip through both Creole classics and newer dishes representing the global influences that laid the foundation for this unique food milieu.
1. Order the freshest fish at Pêche
In a city with no shortage of great seafood, Pêche somehow always manages to reach the top of my recommendation list. The menu changes based on what folks are catching that particular day, although there are always excellent options for those who don’t love their food with fins. But if you can, try some seafood – preferably in the form of small plates so you can get a nice variety. In the past, I've gone ga ga for catfish in chili broth, or a whole grilled redfish that left me grinning and extremely sated. The buzzy dining room is crowded, and reservations are essential.
Make it happen: Pêche is casual fine dining; dress up and make reservations about a month in advance via the restaurant website or Resy.
2. Get the best beignets at Dough Nguyener’s
Vietnamese food is as tightly woven into South Louisiana cuisine as po’boys. But in the 2020s, New Orleans has reached an inflection point, where Vietnamese food isn’t just an option; rather, Vietnamese American chefs are redefining local classics. Dough Nguyener’s, a bakery and restaurant located just outside of New Orleans proper on the West Bank, is a great example of this phenomenon. The restaurant is run by Vietnamese Americans who are geniuses at making amazing fried chicken and banh mi, while their baked goods include a wonderful spin on the classic beignet.
Planning tip: This is a casual spot that doesn't take reservations; it fills fast on weekends and gets especially busy during weekend brunch hours. It's located about 8 miles south of town, so you’ll need wheels to get here.
3. Have your mind blown by Saba’s hummus
The brainchild of James Beard Award winner Alon Shaya, Saba’s lovely interior attracts a clientele as attractive and well-heeled as the Uptown neighborhood that surrounds it. And yet for all that elegant atmosphere, the actual food feels like a polished iteration of a stick-to-your-ribs meal served by your grandparents – appropriate, given "saba" is Hebrew for "grandfather." This spot serves up food from across the Jewish diaspora; when you visit, do yourself a favor and order the hummus. There are several versions, including the splurge-worthy decadent blue crab hummus and an intensely flavorful take studded with brussels sprouts, black garlic and pickled jalapenos.
Make it happen: Make reservations a few weeks in advance via Resy and get a little dressed up. Saba has a lovely outdoor dining area, which I recommend when the weather is nice.
4. Dig into curry chicken at Queen Trini Lisa
New Orleans has been dubbed the northernmost Caribbean city in the world, and Queen Trini Lisa keeps this town firmly in the gastronomical orbit of those islands. Queen Trini has been slinging Trinbagonian deliciousness since she worked out of an old convenience store. She brings the heat and flavor of Trinidad and Tobago to a Mid-City neighborhood restaurant with no pretension and prices that are cool relief in an age of menu sticker shock. Her jerk chicken is her most famous dish, but I order the chicken curry, which comes layered with tropical depth and a lick of heat that has me watering for a side of Caribbean-style spinach and fried plantains. (And on that note, the vegan plate here is an exemplar of the genre.)
Make it happen: No reservations are required, and the restaurant rarely gets packed. I've found the quickest service during the early dinner (5:30–6:30) block.
5. Down some raw oysters at Pascal’s Manale
The interior of Pascal's Manale gives off an unaffected “oh-is-this-a-lost-Sopranos-episode” vibe, all black-and-white photos and clubby, chummy banter between local characters. All that atmosphere is tasty enough, but what of the food? There are steaks and plates of pasta as big as your face, and these are all good, but I'm telling you to come here for the raw oyster bar, which deserves an exhibition hall at the Smithsonian. This piece of urban history comes with a shucker who will flatter you, cajole you, banter with you and finally serve a plate of beautiful, glistening jewels of the sea. Slurp them. Wash down with white wine. Repeat, repeat, repeat.
Make it happen: Reservations aren't necessary, but why not dress up a little? Pascal’s raw bar starts getting busy around 5pm, but the shuckers know their trade and keep things moving fast.
6. Soak up the shrimp sauce at Liuzza’s by the Track
You can get your beer in a goblet at Liuzza’s by the Track. A goblet. Plus, there’s duck tenders, a garlic fried oyster po’boy that is almost illegally good and a few random gambling machines, all in a location mere steps from the city’s famous racetrack (which happens to host Jazz Fest). You must order the barbeque shrimp here, though. Just to note: it’s not really barbeque. Down here, that means the shrimp is simmered in a stupidly rich garlic butter sauce that will engender paroxysms of the happiest food sweats. Get some extra bread, because you’ll be wanting to dip it into that sauce.
Make it happen: Liuzza's does not take reservations. It tends to get slammed during lunch and dinner, which means you have to wait for a table. Most regulars use this time to hit the in-house bar.
7. Wait in line for a Reuben at Stein’s Market & Deli
You likely came to New Orleans wanting a po’boy, the city’s famous take on a sub (or maybe the sub is the Yankee take on the po’boy). But there are more ways to devour ingredients between bread than the justifiably famous po’boy, and Stein's Market & Deli, a local deli par excellence, is ready to go toe to toe with any protein-carb combo your hometown can muster. Wait in line (there’s inevitably a line), look at the fridge of craft beers and sodas, purchase one of said beverages and don’t be intimidated by Dan Stein himself, who acts gruff but is kind of a sweetheart. All the sandwiches are good; the Reuben and the Rachel stand out as magic of the highest sand-witchery.
Make it happen: Stein's does not take reservations and gets busy from around 11am–1pm. The line moves quickly, but if there's a pile of orders, you’ll need to settle in for a wait.
8. Fill up with a shrimp po’boy and gravy fries at Parkway
Did I just say that po’boys aren’t the only sandwiches in New Orleans? Sure did. You still need to have a po’boy, though, and the faded yellow-corn husk of the Parkway Bakery and Tavern, hunched on the banks of Bayou St John, is for the connoisseur. Assuming the connoisseur enjoys some good gravy fries. But if you fill up fast, skip those carbs and just get a fried shrimp po’boy, preferably "dressed" (lettuce, tomato, pickles, onion, mayo). That’s a lot of fried seafood on bread – walk it off on the banks of the bayou, the city’s prettiest inland waterway, afterwards.
How to get it: No reservations are needed. Parkway gets slammed during lunch hours, but it maintains an efficient system that keeps the long lines moving.
9. Burn your tongue with the pani puri at Mister Mao
The smoke licks off the firing pans at Mister Mao, and you can watch it do so with a seat at the bar, which makes for excellent dinner theater. Grab a cocktail and travel through the contemporary takes on cuisine from across China and Southeast Asia, including ginger salad and avocado chaat. Make sure to order a round of pani puri: these little balls of airy goodness – filled to the brim with potato masala, chutney, and pickled blueberries – are like an international party in your mouth.
Make it happen: This is a popular spot, and reservations are a must (book a month in advance); the restaurant prefers that you book through Resy.
10. Satisfy your sweet tooth with ice cream at Lucy Boone
New Orleans, it almost goes without saying, is hot. Very hot. And the tastiest culinary counter to "very hot" is ice cream. Some extraordinary local ice cream can be found at Lucy Boone, a small, family-run establishment that specializes in just a few flavors at a time – key lime pie and nutella brownie among them. Order whatever you like, because you will not go wrong.
Make it happen: You can walk in whenever. There are two or three tables in here, so there may be a line, but it moves quickly (although you might not after this ice cream).